Bungalows Playa Famara: In Casa María
When we take the keys at the reception we see a picture of Pedro Almodóvar, Penélope Cruz and the manager of the complex together with a poster of the Manchegan’s film, Broken Embraces (Los abrazos rotos), in which part of the picture was shot at Bungalows Playa Famara:
“In Broken Embraces (Los abrazos rotos) (2009), Lena (Penélope Cruz) and Mateo (Lluís Homar) run away to Lanzarote to try to start a new life together. They rent a bungalow at Famara beach, in which they live for a month…" (Localizaciones Famara, Todo Almodóvar).
Bungalows Playa Famara, also known as Los Noruegos (The Norwegians), is a residential area established at the foot of Famara’s Cliff and a few steps from the wild Famara Beach (map). It is the location to start a new life or, at the very least, makes up the place for a wonderful, unique, different holidays in Lanzarote.
* Stay at Bungalows Famara, pictures by Ramón Pérez Niz.
I get inside Casa María somewhat intimidated by the impetuous soundtrack that will accompany us during our stay: the roar of the Atlantic, which, far from accelerate, will tame the spirit of whomever goes full speed in life.
It is strange getting inside the bungalow, oval-shaped, as if it were the moon in the waning half. It has a retro look, but at the same time has a total futuristic aura… truth be told, it transpires authenticity, like the sets for Kubrick’s films in the 70s. In short, you will be able to have a lot of feelings, except indifference.
I leave the supplies and the luggage, and I head back to the terrace, absolutely sheltered from the wind, which is an A+ for the architect that designed the residential area half a century ago. Regarding time going by, the bungalow is completely renovated, but keeps the hibiscus of the initial garden.
Yours truly appears in a family video aged two (38 summers ago) biting the dust very close to the flowers of the little tree. I had not been back since then.
Here, in the terrace, nerve centre of the accommodation, you let yourself go, you open your beer and you give yourself to the absolute privilege of being in the heart of a protected natural space, in which, besides the sea, it is the kingdom of the sand, trade winds and immeasurable sky, stage of the flight of a handful of seagulls that flies the flag of freedom.
On the horizon, a bit more than a nautical mile away, appears the suggestive figure of La Graciosa, the outline of Montaña Clara and also a side of the Islote de Alagranza can be spotted, islands of the Archipiélago Chinijo, whose waters go up in the biggest marine reserve in Europe.
The sun sets in the south west, barely plainly appreciated due to the intense haze that has welcomed us, and the moment coincides with the rest of the expedition. At the far end of the terrace appears the perfect bedroom to leave the children asleep while we prepare the night, breeding ground for a good dinner that consists of potatoes from Los Valles, tomatoes and fantastic meat all surrounded by the magic of Famara.
The photographer doubles as cook at the same time. He deserves a prize. Casa María has two barbecues in the house and we make use of one of them.
For such an occasion we saved one of the 500 bottles of submarine wine from La Grieta, that worked as a counterpoint to the meat, which charcoaled turned out sensational. “Give it a bit more heat to the last portion, por favor”, we told him.
Today (Friday, 31st March) the trade winds blow with violence and here, in the terrace I would turn into my house forever, we feel so comfortable with no news from the wind that… we would extend our evening until dawn, simple as that.
However, the little beasts that have been sleeping since 9 pm will wake up soon, which forces us to rest for a bit. To sleep, each couple in their room, separated by some tens of metres with their own bathrooms in the hallways that isolate us.
It only took counting to three to fall asleep, wake up, open the gate-viewpoint of the apartment to get the urge to deliver a wild cry: “Good morning, Famaraaaaa!!!” What a treat to wake up like this.
After breakfast it was time to be on the laptop for a very short time. I settle in the only part of the bungalow that has not been renewed. No renovation needed. The furniture in the dining room, which could not be any more retro, is in perfect condition.
Now that there is sunscreen all over our bodies and we are full of enery, we get downhill, and only three minutes after, voilà, voilà.
The only doubt now is whether to take the path to the right…
…or the path to the left.
Eeny, meeny, miny, moe… to the right it is!
Famara is one of the best beaches of the Canary Islands, but it is exposed to some strong currents. It is not convenient to venture sea inside, so try to stay close to the shore.
With a silly smile on my lips, it is time to make a visit to what is the nearest thing to civilisation in some kilometres around, Caleta de Famara, two minutes away from the bungalows, a little fishing and surfing village in which the sand resists to the asphalt in its main roads.
On the seafront there are some restaurants, but El Risco stands out, and it is where we have a snack that consists of red tuna, before singing Happy Birthday to Alfredo, a local that blew the candles for his half a century life -the same number of years that Bungalows Playa Famara have been running- who had the courtesy to invite us to the celebration at his house.
Coming back from the birthday we stumble across this incomparable landscape.
It seems like the haze is disappearing at the same time the strength of the wind descends. We turn on the oven and prepare a nice dinner to enjoy the absolute peace, again in the terrace with the rock’n’roll lullaby from the tides in the background. We check the weather forecast, “Looks like tomorrow is going to be really, really good.” We will check that out tomorrow. Let’s get some sleep.
News travels fast
Indeed it does. Famara, in days like this, with clear sky, no wind, over 25ºC, turns out to be the place where to leave our towels…
…and make the shore the way for the best jogging session you will ever remember in your life.
Miraculously, some beers have survived in the fridge, and we are saving them for when we get back form the beach. With sunscreen all over our bodies and full of energy again, let’s go!
If you come with the youngest of your family, do not get away a single millimetre from them to be cautious…
…and let’s go crazy!
Remember the beers we were saving in the fridge? They flew. Stunning weekend. We have to come back.
Fancy sleeping three minutes away from the shore of Famara?
- Booking application in Los Noruegos/Bungalows Playa Famara in the form.
- Bungalows Playa Famara has one, two and three bedroom apartments.
- We stayed at Casa María from 31st March to 2nd April 2017.
- Depending on the time of the year and the number of guests, the rates go from 60 euros a day in a standard bungalow and from 105 euros a day in a bungalow with a private pool.