From Arrieta to Costa Teguise along the coastline, almost always rough, violently lashing the cliffs that border the northeast of Lanzarote.
On the 18 kilometres of the Atlantic hike you will find a wide variety of scenes: hypnotic coves, jable sandy desert between tuneras, nudist villages, huts waiting for lost boats to moor, salt marshes that keep their shape, caves and bathing spots for all tastes and in almost every colour.
STARTING: LA GARITA BEACH, ARRIETA
With the compass pointing south, you will cross a dirt track parallel to the sea, cross a children’s play area and the terrace of La Playa Restaurant to leave behind the roar of the waves of La Garita whose foam hugs, no longer strong, sterile, the boulders that border the beach.
We then have to climb a small hill that leads us to the plain that separates Arrieta from Mala, a rustic space from which a couple of solitary houses with their own beach (map) and swimming pool emerge.
On this stretch the coastline opens up to the east and is more exposed to a raging sea. A handful of fishermen tame the Atlantic on the overhanging rocks while their mountains wait for them, parked, standing among the boulders.
Carpet of chime: Mala, Seifio Beach and Charco del Palo
The silhouette of the village of Mala and its hypnotic jable valley appear on the horizon, and at the height of the coastline begins the feast of natural pools that you will come across throughout the journey. This pool, the Piscina de los Robayna, is the first of many fantastic pools in which you can dive.
The possible acceleration you might bring from your day to day life is blurred between the disturbing sound of the nearby bufaderos and the contrasting landscape of the tuneras, tabaibas and veroles that emerge, who knows how, from this endless carpet of golden jable.
It is on this stretch of the road, very close to the hut of the lost ships (sings Chavela Vargas), the Seifio Beach (map), when you come across people in their balls (naked, as God brought them into the world). Don’t rush to drink water thinking that this is a mirage due to lack of hydration: it is the nudists who live in naturist mode in the first nudist town in the Canary Islands, Charco del Palo, just 1.8 kms from Seifio Beach.
Both this cove and the pools of Charco del Palo are sheltered from the roughness of the ocean. The Seifio and its surroundings are particularly attractive because of the solitary vibe that envelops them.
There is more dynamism in the nudist city with these nudists going out, white or blue towel hooked around their necks, looking for a place to stay in some of the volcanic stone corrals planted in the jable valley, hanging around the bathing coves of calm waters.
We leave behind, and in peace, the Nordic jubilee that watches the hours pass by in slow motion, and we head for the other coastal town of Guatiza, Los Cocoteros.
Salinas, Bañaderos, Ancones Lejanos
The option of ending the Atlantic hike at Los Cocoteros seems to be the best alternative, because once we leave it behind at the southern exit, the next 9 kilometres to Costa Teguise are quite monotonous: a continuous up and down between hills bordering the cliffs filed by the sea.
Certainly, it gets a bit tedious going up and down in the middle of nowhere. In this sense, reaching Los Ancones, a picturesque scattering one kilometre north of Costa Teguise, is very good news.
Once we have passed the small height that takes us from the sea to the little houses, oh, surprise, Azaola, you are in heaven. Our friends Jose and Ruth are getting their VV ready and Azaola doesn’t have time to open his house to me “hey, come in, let’s have a glass of wine”. God brings them up and they flock together, I thought, but I had to decline…the wine. “Another day, Jose, I’m just in time to get to school to pick up the kids.
10 minutes later you will find yourself at the beginning of the promenade of Costa Teguise, where the touristy sea salt-rich jogging is applied. Here I drop anchor, putting an end to this new Lanzarote Atlantic hike.
THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND
If you have come this far, let us tell you that since 2013 we have been travelling around Lanzarote in search of its essence so that you can enjoy it like a local.